In the early 2000’s, when women’s magazines were still thriving and editors were afforded somewhat leisurely, slower-paced roles with highly specific “beats,” I had a job where all I covered was New York City spas and spa trends. The position (literally, the title was “Chill Out Editor”) required that I write weekly reviews of facials, all of which I received for free. I was a broke kid, still in my 20s. I made $35,000 a year, but the perks meant I often indulged in treatments that would’ve otherwise cost a month’s rent. One winter, while reporting our annual “Best Spas” issue, I tested so many different types of facials — oxygen, lymphatic drainage, plasma-infused, gold-flake, you name it — that by my 15th appointment the esthetician looked upon my raw, over-exfoliated visage and refused to work on it.
Quick Overview
What I learned in all those years of steaming and cleansing and extracting is this: If your budget is tight, most spa-quality facials (aside from cosmetic procedures like Botox or laser therapies) can be performed at home at an entirely reasonable cost. You just need to understand the basic order of operations and invest in a few completely affordable tools. Here’s how to do it.
Step 1: Double-cleanse
Never in my many years writing about beauty have I advocated for anything close to a “double cleanse.” Hell, I barely even wash my face! But we’re in luxury mode now, we are TREATING OURSELVES, and that means it’s time to go all-out. Plus, for best results in any facial, you want to start with squeaky-clean skin. The first step begins by massaging an oil or oil-based cleansing balm into dry skin — this will remove any surface makeup or grime. For best results, gently wipe away the product with a damp microfiber cloth. Next, cleanse a second time with a light foaming gel. Rinse, but do not repeat.
Step 2: Steam
The most important goals of any facial are to open up and clean out pores and leave skin clear, hydrated and soft. Steaming helps achieve both, bringing loads of moisture to your face and loosening the hardened oils of clogged pores — particularly the grime found in blackheads.
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And, while you could simply boil hot water, let it cool a teensy bit and hold your head over the steam while covered in a towel; a facial steamer is safer, more effective and just more glamorous. It also helps with stuffy noses and sinus infections and is great for winter skin and dry climates of any kind — I use mine much more often than I would have ever imagined.
Step 3: Exfoliate
Now that your pores are open, it’s time to remove the dead skin cells. This not only brightens your complexion but will improve the absorption of the rest of the products used in your facial. There are two types of exfoliators: Physical (like scrubs or dermaplaining blades) and chemical (like glycolic acids). Your preference here will depend on your age and skin type — for example, thinner, older, drier skin tends to respond better to chemical exfoliants. I myself love a natural enzyme exfoliating mask, like this old-school pumpkin iteration from Bliss, which after just 10 minutes packs a serious, glowifying punch.
Step 4: Massage
This would be the point in the facial where an esthetician would do a thorough extraction of your most stubborn blackheads — essentially a professional pimple popping. But I’m going to recommend you skip that step as it is both painful and, if done incorrectly, can lead to permanent scarring. Instead, after rinsing off your exfoliant, give your face a thorough massage — with tools or without. “Techniques like jade rolling or facial massage can improve circulation, tone facial muscles and give a temporarily lifted appearance,” says Boston facial plastic surgeon Dr. Akshay Sanan.
After applying a thin layer of your preferred face oil, start from the base of your neck and massage in upward motions all the way to your forehead, carving out the cheekbones and avoiding your eyes. Pay particular attention to the forehead and jawline. Take as long as you like — but no shorter than five full minutes.
Step 5: Mask
If you’re not in a rush, this is the point of the facial where you can add a sheet mask, play a meditation app or some calming tunes and lie back and relax. If you’re in a hurry or just getting bored with the entire enterprise, you can skip to step 6.
Step 6: Moisturize
At this point in life, you probably know how to moisturize, but since this is a special occasion — a party for your face — you’ll want to go the extra mile with an additional layer of thick lotion that can really lock in all the moisture you’ve been building in steps 1-5. The thing about face moisturizers is you don’t need go fancy. Most every expert I’ve spoken with over the years has recommended basic drugstore creams over spendier brands.
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